The Village and its History
The municipal area of Cortes is one of the largest in the region, covering 17,000 hectares of land that juts into the province of Cadiz. The Phoenicians were the first to arrive, in the 11th century BC, followed by the Greeks and Romans, the remains of whose settlement are a few kilometres outside town in Cortes El Viejo, in the Sierra de la Blanquilla. Scattered around the Cortes municipality are also vestiges of their aqueducts, bridges and monuments. The Romans gave the town the name of Cortex, meaning protection or defence.
Under the Moors, Cortes was controlled in different periods by the kingdoms of Seville, Granada and Ronda. It was briefly conquered by the Christian king, Fernando III, in the 13th century before reverting back to the Moorish control. The Christians led by the Marquis of Cadiz, Rodrigo Ponce de León, only regained power over Cortes at the very end of the Catholic re-conquest, in 1485.
The wealth of the town is in the cork oak forests around it, from which cork is cut for manufacture and exportation. The acorns that grow here also feed the large number of pigs in the area. Among the most beautiful of the natural surroundings is the Guadiaro Valley region and the Sierra de los Pinos Mountains. The recreation centre "La Sauceda" is an old bandit camp in the heart of the forest. One can enjoy here too the Laueisilva Woods, with vegetation dating from the Tertiary period, the Pileta de la Reina and the Peñón del Buitre. In recent years Cortes has improved its tourism infrastructure and is able to take care of the large number of visitors that come here every year.
The traditional cuisine of the area includes soups, wild rabbit, mountain lamb and many other dishes made from vegetables that are both cultivated here and grow wild. The area is also well known for its pastries, many of which are home-made, using local produce like honey and local aguardiente liqueur.
Many buildings in Cortes date from the 18th-century, the most prominent of these being the elegant sandstone building of the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall), with a neo-classical façade, which was constructed in 1784. Several other buildings are from the same period, such as the town's church, the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rosario, the Casa de los Valdenebros (1763) and the Casa Parroquial (built in 1700). The curious Casa de Piedra (Stone House) is a rock that was carved out in Moorish times.
Plaza de Toros
The bullring was built in 1894 and restored in 1921. With a 1,000-strong capacity, the bullring is one of the largest in the Serranía de Ronda. Its size is a reflection of Cortes's strong tradition of cattle rearing (the town's annual feria features a cattle fair), as are its various and well-established bullfighting fiestas.
Torre de Paso
A few kilometres out of town at Los Castillos is the Torre de Paso, a 13th-century defensive tower constructed by the Moors to guard the Gaucín-Ubrique road.
Things to do around Cortes
Walks
As Cortes de la frontera it is located between two stunning natural parks, Cortes is in the heart of excellent walking country. The longest route is the sendero (footpath) of the Llanos de Líbar on the edge of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. It is a long 19km, but pleasant walk, it covers a shallow gradient, crossing the gently rolling flood plain (llano) of the Guadiaro river between Cortes and Montejaque. It takes around seven to eight hours. This is an ideal area for hillWalkers for it offers some very challenging walks and mountain climbs. The valleys and river beds offer less strenuous walking, as do the many cork and pine forests which cover the area.
You can also walk along the Guadiaro river to the Cañón de las Buitreras Natural Monument, an impressive gorge with a colony of griffon vultures (buitres). However, you must be careful, the gorge's steep sides, train tunnels and a lack of a clear track or footpath to follow through the woods mean that it is easy to get lost, whichever of the three access routes to the gorge you take. It is close to the village of El Colmenar, near the local hydroelectric power station
From the picnic area of La Sauceda in the Alcornocales Natural Park west of Cortes is a more difficult walk to the Pico del Aljibe (1,091m). On the last stretch of the walk to the Aljibe peak it's easy to get lost because there is no track or path through the dense forest.
Other activities in the cork forests and in the mountains of the Serranía de Ronda around Cortes include bird watching, horse riding, mountain biking and potholing.
Cueva de la Pileta
Between Cortes and Benaoján on the MA501 is a cave, the Cueva de la Pileta, famous for its prehistoric rock paintings.
There are so many photographic opportunities in this area its important to bring a decent Camera to try and catch them all. For example the hanging white villages perched on the mountain slopes are certainly worth looking at. The older Spanish men and women going about their daily business make excellent character pictures and the sunsets from the mountain tops are worth waiting for. If your Camera is really good you will love capturing the star light on dark evening.
If you visit in June, don't miss the town's two colourful romerías (pilgrimages); at the beginning of the month is the Romería de la Virgen del Rosario, where the Virgin of the Rosary statue from the church is paraded through the streets, and the Romería del Caballo held in mid-June, which is dedicated to horses.
The town's annual summer fiesta, the Feria de San Roque and San Sebastián, is a riotous occasion celebrating the town's patron saints on 23-27 August. The most exciting event is the release of a bull (known as the toro del aguardiente) into the streets, as well as cattle fair, dances and contests. For flamenco aficionados, there is a fandango named after the town: the fandango de Cortes.
For those of you wishing to explore this part of Andalucia you will find Cortes a great place to base your holiday. For the more restless among you, the hustle bustle of the Costa del Sol is only 45 minutes drive away. The vibrant city of Seville is just 2 hour’s drive. Or go to Hemingway’s favourite Spanish town, Ronda – 30 minutes away – and visit Spain’s oldest bullring. On the way you pass “Las Cuevas de la Pileta” –Neolithic caves open to the public and famous for containing some of the finest pre-historic cave paintings in Europe.
The train from Algeciras to Granada, listed as one of the “Great little railways of Europe” stops at Estacion de Cortes, and will take you to Ronda if you fancy leaving the car behind. Granada with its world famous Moorish palace, “La Alhambra”, is 3 hours away by rail or road. Gibraltar and the unspoilt beaches of the Costa de la Luz are also within easy driving distance. Visits by boat to Tangiers in Morocco are also possible. Of course visits to see the Apes of Gibraltar are an easy 90 Mins away. Best park in Spain rather than waste 2 hours trying to get in and out of Gibraltar. Don’t forget your passport. There is a Bus service opposite the airport into the City for 60p (90p return) or you can take the 10-minute walk in to town across the Runway instead. As Gibraltar’s shops close La Linea the border town in Spain opens and is worth a visit with real shops at normal prices. The best restaurant in La linea is the Patagonia but you will need to book at any time of the year. Sunday is not a good day to visit Gibraltar.
You can contact the Town Hall on 952 154 000.
There is a visitors' centre for the Sierra de Grazalema on Avenida de la Democracia, 952 154 599, with information on both Grazalema and the Alcornocales natural parks. It also has exhibitions on cork and hunting. It's open from Thursday to Sunday and on public holidays.
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